A slip stitch joins a folded edge to a flat layer of fabric. A ladder stitch joins two folded edges. Both are sewn by hand and carry the thread inside the fold, so almost nothing shows on the right side once you pull the thread up. Use a ladder stitch to close the gap left for turning a cushion or soft toy, and a slip stitch for hems, linings and bindings.
This guide covers the hand-sewing stitch, not the crochet or knitting stitch with the same name.
Are Slip Stitch and Ladder Stitch the Same Thing?
Not quite, although many patterns and tutorials use the names interchangeably, along with invisible stitch, hidden stitch and blind stitch. The quickest way to choose is to ignore the name and look at your edges.
Merriam-Webster's definition of a slip stitch describes a concealed stitch that runs inside a fold and picks up a thread or two from the main fabric. A ladder stitch works across two folds, and the thread between them looks like the rungs of a ladder until you pull it closed.
The stitch you need depends on what you are joining: two folds call for a ladder stitch, and a fold on a flat layer calls for a slip stitch.
How To Sew a Ladder Stitch
To sew a ladder stitch, take small stitches inside each fold in turn, cross straight over the gap, then pull the thread up so the folds close over it. Cut your thread from fingertip to elbow, as in our guide to sewing a back stitch.
- Press the seam allowance. Fold both raw edges to the wrong side along the seam line and press them before you turn and fill the project.
- Hide the knot. Bring the needle out through one fold from the inside, so the knot sits behind the fold.
- Cross straight over. Enter the opposite fold directly across from where the thread came out. Slanted crossings are the ones that show later.
- Travel inside the fold. Run the needle along the fold for about 3 to 5 mm, then bring it out.
- Repeat from side to side. Keep each stitch the same length as the one opposite, so the seam doesn't twist.
- Pull up every few stitches. Draw the thread gently until the folds touch, then stop. Any harder and the seam starts to gather.
- Finish inside the seam. Take two or three tiny stitches on top of each other in the fold, pass the needle between the layers, bring it out a little way along and snip the thread close.
The stitches look obvious until you pull the thread up, so don't judge the seam until the folds have closed.
How To Sew a Slip Stitch
A slip stitch uses the same hidden travel, but only on the folded side. On the flat side, you catch just one or two threads of fabric.
- Press and pin the fold.
- Bring the needle out through the fold, with the knot hidden behind it.
- Catch the flat layer. Directly opposite, pick up one or two threads.
- Return to the fold. Enter at the same point, travel about 5 to 10 mm inside it, then bring the needle out and repeat.
Keep the thread relaxed. On a hem, pulling tight leaves small dimples on the right side.
Which Needle Size Gives the Most Invisible Finish?
For most projects, we'd start with a regular sewing needle in size 9, moving to size 10 for fine fabric. With John James needles, a higher number means a finer needle.
The John James needle guide shows that sizes 8 and 9 are both 34 mm long and 0.61 mm in diameter, so switching between them won't give you a slimmer needle. Size 10, at 0.53 mm, is the next step down.
A fine needle only helps if the thread suits it, because thick thread is hard to pass through a small eye and can still show in the seam. Choose the two together from our Gutermann threads and John James hand needles.
| Project | Thread | Regular needle | Needle diameter |
|---|---|---|---|
| Silk, linings and fine cotton | Gutermann Extra-fine | Size 10 | 0.53 mm |
| Cotton and most cushion covers | Gutermann Sew-All | Size 9 | 0.61 mm |
| Heavier furnishing fabrics | Gutermann Sew-All | Size 7 | 0.69 mm |
| Soft toys that get heavy handling | Gutermann Extra-Strong | Size 5 | 0.76 mm |
How Do You Close Cushions and Soft Toys Neatly?
Plan the gap before you sew the seam, press its edges, and close it with a ladder stitch once the filling is in. This is a question we often hear from customers, usually when a project is finished apart from that last opening.
Cushions
Leave the gap on a straight edge, away from the corners. A corner needs its machine seam to hold its shape.
A full pad pushes the folds apart, so pin or clip them first and stitch in short runs. Our upholstery fabrics and foam suit a pad you make yourself.
Soft Toys
Put the gap on a straight or gently curved seam on the body, not at the neck or where a limb joins, because those seams get pulled the most. Fill the toy firmly up to the opening with toy stuffing from our craft department, then use shorter stitches than you would on a cushion. Finish with a firm tug along the seam to test it.
On a larger toy in pile fabric or fleece, a long doll needle can bury the thread tail deep in the stuffing once the seam is closed.
If you plan to sell toys for children under 14, read the GOV.UK toy safety guidance first.
Where you leave the gap matters as much as how you close it, because seams at corners and joins are the hardest to hide or take the most strain.
Why Can You Still See the Stitches?
Visible stitches usually come from the path of the needle, not the stitch itself. Check the fault against this table before you unpick anything.
| What you can see | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Thread across the seam | Slanted crossings | Enter directly opposite where the thread came out |
| Puckering | Thread pulled too tight, or uneven stitches | Ease the thread back and match the stitch lengths |
| Tiny dots on the right side | Needle coming through the fabric | Stay inside the fold and use a finer needle |
| Thread colour standing out | Thread lighter than the fabric | Go one shade darker, so it sinks into the weave |
When Is an Invisible Closure the Wrong Choice?
Skip it when you will need to open the seam again, or when the seam has to take real strain.
- Covers you wash often. A sewn closure must be unpicked for every wash, so fit a zip or an envelope back instead.
- Seams under strain. Bag handles and crotch seams need the overlap of a back stitch.
- Stretch fabric. Thread can snap when jersey stretches, so use a method from our stretch fabric guide.
Try It on Two Scraps First
Practise on scraps before you touch a finished cushion.
- Fold and press one long edge on each of two cotton scraps.
- Sew 10 cm of ladder stitch in a contrasting thread, leaving it loose so you can see every rung.
- Check that each rung sits straight, then pull the thread up and look at the closed seam.
- Repeat in matching thread and compare the two.
If you'd rather learn with a tutor beside you, we run classes in Colchester, Chelmsford, Ipswich and Salisbury. Sewing Basics is a machine class for real beginners, but it leaves room for other topics, so ask about hand closures.
You'll find needles, thread and the rest of the kit in our haberdashery range, in our stores and online at Franklins.
